Caddy Shack

[danny_shank]

Hi Henny, been fascinated reading your posts. You guys certainly put my course management to shame.

One question, What do you consider when deciding where to tee it up on the tee box? Is it as simple as; hitting a draw then left side, fade then right..

Cheers,

Danny

[Hennybogan]

Hi Henny, been fascinated reading your posts. You guys certainly put my course management to shame.

One question, What do you consider when deciding where to tee it up on the tee box? Is it as simple as; hitting a draw then left side, fade then right..

Cheers,

Danny

Danny,

First, I want the best lie. Level, etc. I tend toward the left side. I draw it now, but I did the same when I hit the fade. Other consideration is to tee up on the side of trouble, so you hit away from it. More than anything, try to make the shot look good to you. Unless you are in a tree tunnel, you can define the tee shot by how you use the tee.

[nuke99]

Can you please show us an example to correctly chart or draw the break on a green?

I tried to do it and ... I got lost in my own notes lol. How should i do it?

There are also green where a downhill chipshots are not advisable, how would you chart that or note that?


Thank you!

[12 piece bucket]

This was in another thread . . . but it would be interesting to get HB and OK's opinion . . .

How important is the long game to scoring low? Or does it depend on the skill level?

Holla!!!

[Hennybogan]

This was in another thread . . . but it would be interesting to get HB and OK's opinion . . .

How important is the long game to scoring low? Or does it depend on the skill level?

Holla!!!

Bucket,

The long game sets the range for scores. How high can you score if you hit every fairway and every green? How low can you shoot if you hit three balls out of bounds? I know these are wide ranges, but they illustrate the point. What tour players are so good at (besides all the most obvious) is scoring better than they hit it.

So you need to hit the ball at a certain level to score in the range you think is acceptable, and you need the short game to get into the low part of that range.

HB

[Uppndownn]

HB & OK,

I look forward to seeing more of Overkill's green mapping technique. Maybe if you get to a scanner we can see a portion of a green layout and how you reflect it. That would be illuminating.

My question is about iron club technology. Do you guys think today's irons are really that superior to sets of a generation or two back? Coud not a good player score nearly the same with say, a set of Bulletbacks from the
60s fitted with the proper shaft and grip? Or Ping Eye 2's ?

How much is real and how much is hype? My thinking is that is is almost always the Indian, not the arrow. I want to hear it from your perspective.

Thanks.

[Hennybogan]

HB & OK,

I look forward to seeing more of Overkill's green mapping technique. Maybe if you get to a scanner we can see a portion of a green layout and how you reflect it. That would be illuminating.

My question is about iron club technology. Do you guys think today's irons are really that superior to sets of a generation or two back? Coud not a good player score nearly the same with say, a set of Bulletbacks from the
60s fitted with the proper shaft and grip? Or Ping Eye 2's ?

How much is real and how much is hype? My thinking is that is is almost always the Indian, not the arrow. I want to hear it from your perspective.

Thanks.

Uppndownn,

I'm big on the Archer not the arrow. I do think that fitting would be critical.

I still hit blades. I think there may be some value for trajectory from clubhead weighting in the longer clubs.

[Overkill]

Can you please show us an example to correctly chart or draw the break on a green?

I tried to do it and ... I got lost in my own notes lol. How should i do it?

There are also green where a downhill chipshots are not advisable, how would you chart that or note that?


Thank you!

99

I,m not sure where you would like me to start, so lets start at the beginning.

I like the idea of the green being on a grid; the grid can be whatever size you like but I like 5x5; walk off your green, fit it within your grid, then walk of the ridges and fit those in your grid; the top of ridges could be indicated by a single line with cross strokes indicating slopes, long or short, depending on the severity of the slope. You could also mark areas with H or L to indicate high and low points.

Next, I use the level to show the 'fall lines' in various sections of the green; this is where a put would roll in a straight line and I draw an arrow to indicate this. The longer the arrow the steeper the slope. As I indicated earlier, the level I use is a circle; the steeper the slope, the farther the bubble moves from the centre; a straight line extended through the bubble and the centre is the fall line.

Now, before I bore you to death, let me explain something. This work I do is for my comfort level; these guys can read and putt greens or they would not be out here. I may only be required to utilize my 'charting' once or twice a round. However, where it is invaluable, is when a pin is placed in what looks like a flat area, or on top of a ridge, or at the bottom of a valley.

There is a new green at 'Congressional' this year and I was out charting it early this morning when a player came through. He had a short putt for par and missed it right; he tried it again and missed it again. I put the level down and guess what , the green sloped to the right, but you could not see the slope by just looking at the green.

In a valley, I find the bottom with the level and then I note how many paces that is from the edge of the green. Now, when a pin is placed in that area, depending on which side of the 'bottom' it is, I will know which way the putt will break, even if I can not see it.

What I'm trying to say is that charting is of the most value when the slope cannot be seen. Then, of course you have to get the 'putter' to believe you////

By the way, when you are 'charting' you greens, don't forget about the GRAIN//// just thought I would throw that in///

With regards to your chipping question, I have never noted that type of situation, I believe the player's comfort level will dictate the best course of action.

[Hennybogan]

HB & OK,

I look forward to seeing more of Overkill's green mapping technique. Maybe if you get to a scanner we can see a portion of a green layout and how you reflect it. That would be illuminating.

My question is about iron club technology. Do you guys think today's irons are really that superior to sets of a generation or two back? Coud not a good player score nearly the same with say, a set of Bulletbacks from the
60s fitted with the proper shaft and grip? Or Ping Eye 2's ?

How much is real and how much is hype? My thinking is that is is almost always the Indian, not the arrow. I want to hear it from your perspective.

Thanks.

Uppndownn,

I will be adding some content about the yardage books in the near future. It will be much easier to understand some of these concepts by looking at pictures. It will take a little time to organize this content. In the meantime, don't hesitate to ask questions, and you can suffer through our attempts to explain.

HB

[nuke99]

99

I,m not sure where you would like me to start, so lets start at the beginning.

I like the idea of the green being on a grid; the grid can be whatever size you like but I like 5x5; walk off your green, fit it within your grid, then walk of the ridges and fit those in your grid; the top of ridges could be indicated by a single line with cross strokes indicating slopes, long or short, depending on the severity of the slope. You could also mark areas with H or L to indicate high and low points.

Next, I use the level to show the 'fall lines' in various sections of the green; this is where a put would roll in a straight line and I draw an arrow to indicate this. The longer the arrow the steeper the slope. As I indicated earlier, the level I use is a circle; the steeper the slope, the farther the bubble moves from the centre; a straight line extended through the bubble and the centre is the fall line.

Now, before I bore you to death, let me explain something. This work I do is for my comfort level; these guys can read and putt greens or they would not be out here. I may only be required to utilize my 'charting' once or twice a round. However, where it is invaluable, is when a pin is placed in what looks like a flat area, or on top of a ridge, or at the bottom of a valley.

There is a new green at 'Congressional' this year and I was out charting it early this morning when a player came through. He had a short putt for par and missed it right; he tried it again and missed it again. I put the level down and guess what , the green sloped to the right, but you could not see the slope by just looking at the green.

In a valley, I find the bottom with the level and then I note how many paces that is from the edge of the green. Now, when a pin is placed in that area, depending on which side of the 'bottom' it is, I will know which way the putt will break, even if I can not see it.

What I'm trying to say is that charting is of the most value when the slope cannot be seen. Then, of course you have to get the 'putter' to believe you////

By the way, when you are 'charting' you greens, don't forget about the GRAIN//// just thought I would throw that in///

With regards to your chipping question, I have never noted that type of situation, I believe the player's comfort level will dictate the best course of action.

Thank you ! Man, thats alot of hard work!