modified plane board
 

I have been considering building a plane board. I have began to wonder if I should modify it for TGM. From what I can tell, the semi-circular part cut of the middle to allow for the address position usually has a radius of about 30 inches, leaving 18 inches on each side for the club head and part of the shaft to rest upon. I'm wondering if I should reduce this radius to just enough to allow me to take an address postition. My thinking is that this would allow me to not only rest the clubhead and a small portion of the shaft on the board, but the entire shaft and even my right fore arm and elbow. From there I could be sure that I am going up plane and back down plane. Comments or suggestions?

I have been thinking about doing the same thing. Anybody have any ideas on how to build one?

I use a 1" by 12" plank 3 ft long. I prop it up so it is act the correct angle to the shaft using several dumbells. Portable and easy to change the shaft angle. Works perfect for putting and chipping. Master the right forearm takeaway and choose you hinge method.

Here is what I had in mind, before modifications. Click on pic for enlargement.

The final product. (with fancy legs) This shouldn't be that hard to build.

Heat:

What are the legs in the pic made out of?? Almost look like big ole plastic fan blades...

FL-John

John,

This is just a picture I have from somewhere. I haven't built one yet. In the original pic, the legs appear to just be plywood (OSB) like the face. I wouldn't recommend building one like that because the legs wouldn't be able to fold up. You would need quite a bit of space to store it. I plan on using 2 x 4 legs on hinges like the first plan. This will enable me to fold it almost flat and slide it somewhere for storage.

I see a couple plane board built from using the foam panels they use on house. Light weight and easy to transport. They used 1x2 for legs.


I read one poster on another forum talking about the full size plane board which allows for the right forearm trace/plane etc. He stated the difference between the half and full size was no comparison.

Problem with a big one is storing and moving around.

If you want to take it to the driving range, you probably don't want to have to take flat bed truck with a fork lift (if you build it out plywood). :lol:

Great Imaging and Visual Directions for construction of a Plane Board....After constructing several plane boards, both with wood and plastic....the wood is excellent especially if painted with an exterior paint or weather proofing....The Plane board that you have constructed demonstrates a "half of a Plane board which works great for most and is fairly easy to transport...As a matter of fact at Pine Needles, we used Bag stands rotated around backwards as supports rather than building leg supports...however, if you want to have a "cool" plane board go for it all....with the legs and the hinges...a "Full Monty". A full size plane board... just double the face of the plane and then use 8 ft 2x4's to frame it and as support legs to hold it up ....I recommend Doubling the frame for a full size due to eay warping of the face of the plane. I would recommend a Full size for a permanent location.

$.02,

Annikan

If you want to make a full plane board that is portable, maybe you could cut another sheet of plywood like the bottom half. Then attach the two sheets with door hinges that allow you to fold the plane board in half.