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Old 10-11-2005, 08:34 PM
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Yoda Yoda is offline
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The New Big Stick
Has anybody done any serious experimentation with the new 460 head drivers? Is there something to this latest incarnation of 'bigger is better'? Or is it just marketing hype? I just hit a few with the new Nike SasQuatch the other day, but not enough to form any definite opinion. Here's some basic information from Edwin Watts: http://www.edwinwatts.com/product.as...tegory=Drivers
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Old 10-11-2005, 08:50 PM
jim_0068 jim_0068 is offline
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As the swing speed and ball speed goes up so does spin and launch angle unfortunately. You need to learn how to control them and optimize them.

you can do that with a 350cc head (adam scott 983e) or any of the 400cc+ heads. You need a head that will help you with your MISSES. I am not that HUGE of a high launch high spin player. My misses tend to be low with too much spin. So i employ a Cleveland Comp which has a fairly high launch angle to complement my misses. Also with my grip and swing, i tend to fade it a little. The Comp has 25g redistributed to the heel which helps me draw it a little and keep it from going too far right. For a drawer of a ball, the standard comp may not be good for them.

Find something (in this order) to optimize your launch conditions:

1) find something that looks/sounds good to you that you will have confidence with

2) determine if this driver will help with your misses

3) proceed to shaft/loft combinations that will get you your optimal launch conditions for maximum distance.

Last time i was on a monitor i was swinging in the 105-110 range, 155-163 ball speed, 14-15* of launch angle, 2600-2800rpm of spin, 255-268 yards of carry and a total distance of 265-290.

I'm about maxed out, for me to hit it further i need more swing speed. However before i was "maxed out" i was hitting it 250-270.

Also you need to keep in mind that you REALLY need to go to a qualified fitter who will take into effect your ENTIRE SWING and not just your swing speed and ball speed numbers. Swingers, Hitters, release types, tempos, etc all play into it.

For those reading, do a search on my screenname for a post i made about fitting swingers vs hitters.
----------------

PS Yoda, wait until winter for the Retail Nike Sasquate "tour" version. Not as long heel/toe and a little deeper bottom to top. Much more suited to a better player.
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:21 PM
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On The Front Of The SasQuatch Curve
Originally Posted by jim_0068
Yoda, wait until winter for the Retail Nike Sasquate "tour" version. Not as long heel/toe and a little deeper bottom to top. Much more suited to a better player.
Thanks for the heads-up, Jim. Seems I may have been a bit ahead here (without knowing it). My session with the SasQuatch came during a lesson with a PGA TOUR player. He is under contract with Nike and had just received the club.
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Old 10-12-2005, 02:24 AM
jim_0068 jim_0068 is offline
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Well them i'm sure you got to hit a better model

The tour van versions usually have a face angle suited to the player (usually square or open for most horizontal hingers) and are usually more "neutrally" weighted.

For instance if you took my retail comp and a tour comp, you wouldn't find that 25g redistributed in the heel in the tour head.

So, WHAT DID you think of it?
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Old 10-12-2005, 04:57 AM
hue hue is offline
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What Jim says about Tour Issue heads being different is correct. I have a Tour issue R7 TP and have compared it against the Retail R7 TP and they don't perform the same. The Tour Issue version is much more solid and they have done something to the COG to bring the ball flight down and reduce spin rates. I also understand that better high grade Titanium is used in making the Tour Issue versions. They are designed for players with high club head speed which Yoda has . The retail verions are designed around the needs of Mr Throwaway hacker. If the Nike you used was Tour Issue this will be a lot different compared to the retail version. So if you are going to get one get one from your tour contact. I have my clubs fitted by these guys www.precisiongolf.co.uk . They are very good. I am a high spin player and they said I should stay away from the new super big headed drivers as they would not suit me and bring my already high spin rates up.
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Old 10-12-2005, 07:53 AM
RickPinewild RickPinewild is offline
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Nike and 460cc
I tried a Sasquatch Lucky 13 with the Diamanna shaft and really like it. Could not tell distance on the range and the balls were bad, but it was the only club out of 4 manufacturers that felt good. I've been using a 460cc head from Wishon with one of his shafts and hit it as good as any I've ever had. Could be my TGM swing is getting better.
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:56 AM
MizunoJoe MizunoJoe is offline
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Brian Manzella posted a while back that the Cleveland Pro Launch 460 composite driver was SIGNIFICANTLY longer than the other 460 drivers. I don't believe that in general the bigger heads could give more distance unless the shaft length were increased beyond 45". I still use a 300cc titanium head - the Mizuno Pro 300S, because it sounds like persimmon.
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:29 PM
RickPinewild RickPinewild is offline
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Comp
RWH

Do you think the head is longer or perhaps the shaft. What shafts were in the ones you tried.
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:32 PM
jim_0068 jim_0068 is offline
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hue...tour heads are different but i wouldn't go for the "different grade of titanium." It just doesn't make sense from a manufacturing sense. But they do manipulate the head weights, face angles, and COGs.

Also brian said (i believe in an audio answer) that the Cleveland Comp consistently is getting the highest ball speeds from the correlating swing speeds than any other driver. I've talked to a few shops and they agree it gets some impressive ball speed numbers. Some others that do the same thing are the TM R5 and the Ben Hogan CS3.
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Old 10-13-2005, 02:23 AM
hue hue is offline
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Originally Posted by jim_0068
hue...tour heads are different but i wouldn't go for the "different grade of titanium." It just doesn't make sense from a manufacturing sense. But they do manipulate the head weights, face angles, and COGs.

.
I got this from this thread http://www.bombsquadgolf.com/invboar...howtopic=56715

The titanium used in the production of the Tour heads is generally NOT the same as the retail models. Obviously this is NOT the case for every club or every model, but certainly some. It is a very high grade titanium which is stronger and less prone to failure. The average player will never hit 10,000 balls with his driver like a Tour pro will, and thus, has no real need for this quality of materials. It is also more free of imperfections, and much more costly to tool because of the hardness. This grade is mildly heavier, but that is not of great concern because no Tour player plays a 46 inch driver. Just a few grams heavier, which is why you will always see the weight discrepency in Tour and retail heads, even raw and unweighted.

The COG in the Tour heads is almost ALWAYS at a different point than the retail models, generating a mildly lower ball flight and spin rate that most good players desire. There also are NO weight bias' built into the head, unlike retail heads which 99% of the time, have a heel weight bias. This is pretty much true with all Tour drivers no matter what the companies might LIKE the consumer to believe. With a Tour driver, the COG is generally around 2-3mm higher in the Tour head, which results in about 1-1.5 degree of launch angle lower, and 300-600 rpm of spin rate lower than the retail heads. Of course, this can vary slightly.

In Tour fairway woods and utilities, there will also be a mildly higher COG, and either neutral or fade bias built into the COG of the head. 99% of retail fairways and utilities have a heel/draw bias, and generally a more upright lie angle to help the "average" player control their slice.

Of course we all know the face angle is generally square or open on a Tour head, but this is an adjustment made by the Tour department or van, and is really not relevant to any production or internal differences, but is still a difference none the less.

All heads are also tested and conform to the maximum allowable COR.

In terms of Tour irons, most manufacturers will have their heads forged by one of the premium facilities like Miura or Endo for the Tour product, but go with a large mass forging facility in China for the production heads. TaylorMade for example uses Miura to forge the Tour sets, Titleist uses Endo, and Nike has used both in the production of the Tour heads. Tour irons are generally dead on spec in terms of weight. You will not get a Tour set of irons with swingweights all over the board like you do with retail sets. This is because of the quality control at the high grade forging houses. These heads are also nearly free of imperfections both external and internal, and generally have an entirely different feel than their retail counterparts. These forgings are, obviously, higher quality accross the board, and MUCH more expensive to have done than the retail line.

Often time the sole configuration is a bit different as well. Much of the time Tour irons will have a slightly more narrow sole, a blunted leading edge, and more bounce, as the Tour player generally hits down through the ball, taking a divot, where the "average" player generally does not. Often times the Tour heads will have less offset as well as certain lower glare finishes like black or satin, as opposed to the shiney chrome of most retail clubs.

Grooves can also be different in Tour irons as well, not only in configuration, but in actual production. Tour iron heads will ALWAYS have precision milled grooves, where the cutting tool is changed prematurely to make sure there are no imperfections in any of the grooves, unlike retail which are mass produced and generally MUCH more sloppy in terms of quality and precision. Tour iron heads are also often made with both box and V grooves. This is distinguishable on TaylorMade Tour iron heads by the lack of swirl marks on the face of the iron. This has NOTHING to do with the face being milled, as all Tour iron heads are milled for precision. They just remove the swirl marks on the V groove heads to help reduce the spin slightly. V grooves are a lower spin head for the player who wants a flatter and more penetrating ball flight.

Tour wedges also are drastically different than their retail counterparts. They share many of the characteristics of Tour irons, but also have their own unique differences as well. Tour wedges will often have unique finishes and very unique sole grinds. More so than iron heads, to combat a variety of conditions and player styles. The most obvious difference to the eye are facial milling marks on many occasions, varying grinds, and Tour only finishes.

The main difference that makes a Tour wedge perform differently than a retail wedge is the groove. 99.9% of all Tour wedges will have a more agressive groove than retail. This groove is meant to generate more spin. This spin is a God send on very fast greens, from deep rough, and in the wind. Common sense will tell you that more spin means a higher ball flight, but with the way a groove like TaylorMade's Tour exclusive Y groove bites the ball, the flight is actually lower and more penetrating, which allows the player to generate great spin for bite, and a lower flight for MUCH improved control. Many average players enjoy seeing a high arcing wedge shot. PGA Tour pros prefer the lower, more controlled flight, assisted by their wedge grooves and confidence that the ball will bite, even when hit low and flat. Most Tour wedges will have an agressive box groove design, with the exception of TaylorMade's Y Cutter wedge which is a TaylorMade exclusive groove design which lowers flight even more, generates more green biting spin, all while not destroying premium golf balls to a great degree. It truly is THE revolutionary design in wedge grooves.

I would also like to add that some aftermarket companies will offer what they like to CALL a Tour groove. The difference is that in precision made Tour wedges, the groove is milled deep and wide, but also beveled on the edges slightly to allow for more control over the spin rate, and to avoid extreme ball sheering, which can cause unpredictible spin, unpredictible ball flight, and interfere with putting. These aftermarket company wedges may generate green holding spin, but don't be fooled into believing that they are the equal of a TRUE Tour wedge in terms of consistancy and quality. If the wedge devours the cover of a premium golf ball with regularity, take a pass. Your wedges are your SCORING clubs. Don't settle for anything but the club that gives you the best opportunity to get as close to the hole as possible, AND make the putt.
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