A nice summary - the endless belt and where the belt points (aiming point), the size of the pully too, are the key variables IMO.

To Lagster's question I'll add - where are the two 'centers' of the pullys? How does that relate to your center of balance? Does that change if you change where the belt points? (aiming point)

The changes to 2-K are an interesting way to shift the original perspectives on the left shoulder center IMO.

Edz, can you go into more detail on this (why less in the palm helps, etc..)? Maybe you've posted about this in an older thread and could simply provide the link?

Are you referring to:

The key I feel to my stroke, inorder not to have throwaway is to aggressively use my extensor action...constantly pushing downwards hard with my right arm towards the plane line through 'pp3' (instead of pp1) to maintain a flat left wrist. It is also this factor I believe that causes my gradual release. I very much concentrate on the active pressure of the extensor action through pp3 'downwards' towards the plane line. Like your holding a knife in the right hand keep stabbing the pressure downwards with pp3. The right forearm is very active with its extensor action....

I posted this in an earlier thread and it may have more relevance here. . . .

http://theserver.theschool.columbia....s_pulleys.html

Check this out for more on Pulley stuff.

5. Decreasing Pulley Speed

Main Idea: If you use a small pulley wheel to drive a large pulley wheel, the large one will turn slower.

Additional Information: With this model, we have a pulley with a small driver wheel and a large follower wheel. It's really hard to make a wheel like the big one turn - it would take a lot of force. But with a smaller wheel, we can use a process called gearing down to help. Gearing down decreases speed but increases force. Since it's easy to turn a small wheel at a fast speed, we use it to move the large one. A small driver wheel makes a large follower wheel turn more slowly. Since this is a pulley model, both wheels turn in the same direction.

8. Gearing Up

Main Idea: If you use a large gear to drive a small gear, the small one will turn faster.

Additional Information: Here we see a large driver gear and a small follower. We can move the small gear pretty fast on our own, but we can use a process called gearing up to move it even faster. Gearing up increases speed, but decreases force. A good example of a gearing-up system in real life is a 10-speed bike - when you shift into 10th gear, you turn a large gear with the pedals, which drives a small gear attached to the rear wheel. For this model, one turn of the 24-tooth driver produce three turns of the 8-tooth follower. This ratio of 1:3 is called the gearing up ratio

10. Increasing Pulley Speed

Main Idea: If you use a large pulley wheel to drive a small pulley wheel, the small one will turn faster.

Additional Information: In this pulley model we have a large driver wheel and a small follower. We can move the small wheel pretty fast on our own, but these pulleys use a process called gearing up to move it even faster. Gearing up increases speed, but decreases force. A large driver wheel makes a small follower wheel turn faster. However, unlike gears, in this pulley model both wheels turn in the same direction.

This was built with Lego's. I reckon you could raid junior's box and build you some different pulleys to see what happens. Also . . . if the belt is crossed up. The wheels move in opposite directions.

A breakthrough is near.....What affects the Pully Diameter....Left Wrist Cock and Right Elbow location????

Is it not also due to the natural length of the players left arm ?

If you lose the extensor action and allow the left arm to bend more, is it possible to have even smaller pulley ?

How about axis tilt and the right shoulder moving down plane?

A bit of anatomy and a touch of geometry involved, but in a nutshell the palm left hand grip does not allow for a large enough angle between the left arm and club (assuming a flat left wrist). Getting the grip under the heel pad allows the same cock/uncock travel in the left wrist to create a much larger angle with the left arm, while still being basically flat. Of course one can always go double cocked (Hogan), but this requires either perfect CF Rhythm, or a non auto release.

Small pulley v. Large pulley
 

Joe Dante wrote "The correct swing, retaining the wrist break is like a small wheel. It's easy to get started and the energy put into it produces a fast
rotation. The poor swing, hitting too soon and opening the arm-shaft angle, is like a big wheel, hard to get started and never reaching much rotational speed."

He is, of course, talking about Conservation of Angular Momentum (COAM) the effect we see when an ice skater spins faster by pulling her arms in towards her, and slows when she extends her arms.

In TGM terms:
7-18 LEFT WRIST ACTION
...
With the Endless Belt Effect, The Belt (Hands) and the Clubhead have the same RPM but the Surface factor sets in and gives the Clubhead greater MPH - in reverse proportion to the size of the Pulley (the smaller, the faster). That is, raised Hand Position - reducing Accumulator #3 Travel - plus Trigger Delay. Conversely - a larger Pulley (lowered Hands) requires a higher Handspeed and an early Trigger. See (6-B-3-A), (6-F-0) and (6-N-0).

The backswing is about coiling the the upper body against the hips. When tightly coiled, the hands are higher ("raised Hand Position" -- small pulley), but an early hit from the Top or End causes the hands to drop ("lowered Hands -- large pulley").

"The Four Magic Moves To Winning Golf" by Joe Dante was my bible prior to studying TGM. It was first published in 1962 (like Homer, a man before his time?) and is now available as ISBN 0-385-47776-7.

The above quote was from page 116.

Raised Hands/Lowered Hands...Splain!!! Thru Impack?